Wednesday, 8 April 2026

26.2. Storming The Castle

After weeks of wondering when they would announce the fixtures, and weeks of watching the other leagues play their first round, and second round, and third, fourth, and fifth, it's time for the WK League season to kick off. And today is the first day of my new adventure. I'm off to Suwon to see if the Amazones can storm the Castle (Park).

Suwon FC Women is operated by Suwon FC, a professional K League 2 team. They wear the same uniforms,  share social media accounts, and, importantly, they play at the same stadium, a stadium that is relatively easy for me to reach. It's so easy, in fact, that I'll attend even the mid-week matches here.

Unlike the K4 teams I visited during the 2025 season, Suwon's Castle Park is located in a highly populated area with restaurants and even a HomePlus nearby. Castle Park, Suwon's home field, is located within the Suwon Sports Complex, which also hosts the KT Wiz baseball team, KEPCO Vixtorm men's volleyball team, and Hyundai E&C Hillstale women's volleyball team. There aren't many sports complexes in Korea that host multiple professional teams, let alone 4 (and a half, since Suwon FC Women are technically semi-professional)


I've been to the complex multiple times, and although I've watched all the sports on offer over the years, I've watched Suwon FC Women more than even the men's team. I know the area well and have no problem finding lunch and picking up snacks before the match. In the HomePlus food court, I order jjajangmyeon, Korea's favourite dish in terms of plates consumed. While eating, I observe the people around me. Elderly couples are eating tteok with coffee, families are eating bowls of noodles and shared plates of deep-fried pork. Patrons of other restaurants are scattered throughout the food court. The children are surprisingly quiet with no fights or parents shouting at them. It's a pleasant start to the day.


With lunch done, I head over to the stadium. I have some time to go to HomePlus first, but I'm not sure what the security situation will be like, and I don't want to be forced to drink a bottle of Nurin Maeul makgeolli before I'm allowed to enter the stadium. Just because I like makgeolli does not mean I want to be drunk at a football match. My bottled water will have to suffice.

To reach the football stadium, I must pass the baseball stadium. It appears there will be a match today because a handful of people are standing around, some waiting for the team shop to open, some watching the players warm up through a gate, and some having lunch on picnic blankets in the shade of the stadium. It's early spring, and the weather is great for a picnic. I envy them, but I have a football match to get to.


I know the ticket office entrance is on the far side of the complex, but I can't help but feel uncomfortable at the lack of people around the stadium. The only people I see are baseball fans walking around wasting time. Please don't let me be here on the wrong day, not again. But as I get closer to the ticket booth, things start to look brighter. I'm not the only one here! I, and a woman out for her daily run, are making our way towards other people. She is running so slowly that my relaxed walk is keeping up with her. I have to slow down a bit to make sure I don't walk into her. It's odd, but at least she is doing something other than sitting in front of a TV, and you can't fault her for that, right?


At the ticket office, they hand me a ticket without saying a word. Apparently, entrance is free today, which surprises me because the last time I was here, I had to pay. Sure, it was when Suwon was playing in the championship play-off, but I'm still surprised. I take my ticket and head to the new club shop. As I was making my way around the stadium, I passed the old club shop and thought it was closed for the day. However, it seems they just relocated and upgraded it. These are the kind of things you get when your team is connected to a professional team, a fully functioning club shop.

I enter the shop to waste a few minutes looking at Suwon's 2026 season uniforms, the team merch and the mini footballs. Some footballs are signed by the women's team and some by the men's team. It doesn't take me long to find a Min-Ji's signature. I have a personal theory that if you throw a rock into a crowd of Koreans, you will hit at least one Min-Ji. The name is so common that both Suwon and Seoul have a Min-Ji on their roster.

Side note, I checked, and here are the Min-Jies in the WK League:
Gangjin: None
Gyeongju: None
Hwacheon: 5 Min-Something, but no Min-Ji :(
Incheon: Jo Mi-Jin, so close!
Mungyeong: None
Sejong: Yun Min-Ji
Suwon: Jeon Min-Ji
Seoul: Kim Min-ji
Well, if you ignore the first five teams, then every team in the WK League has a Min-Ji, right?


With a Suwon emblem pin and ticket in hand, I make my way to the entrance, where I'm met with a cluster of people staring at their phones before showing QR codes to a reader. There is a poster with a QR code on it, and the translation says I need to scan the QR code to get a QR code to be allowed to enter. I don't understand why, but that is normal for me, and I do what I must to be allowed to go up the ramp to the entrance. At the top of the ramp, my ticket is checked, the stub is torn off, and I'm handed a Suwon flag. I don't need a flag, but it's a nice souvenir, which would have been nice to know about before I bought something. Oh well.

Just past the entrance is a small shop for snacks and drinks. They have a wall of instant noodles, some crisps, drinks and beer. It's interesting to see how easy it is to find alcohol free beer these days. I will have to come back for one of those during halftime. I know I wanted to bring in makgeolli, but if I can't have that, I'm happy with a 0% beer.

Today, only the main stand and food trucks parked just to the side of the playing field are available to spectators. On the Seoul side, there are a surprising number of people, I'm guessing 50 at least, and during the match, that would increase to about 100. It might seem like an insignificant number, but it's not bad for travelling support in this league. On the Suwon side, there are, at the very least, 500 people. Surprisingly, the official number on the joinKFA site claims 136 spectators. How is it possible they can get it so wrong when everyone had to check in with a QR code?

I make myself comfortable and look around. It's a windy day, and flags with the faces of the players are flapping loudly on the walls of the stadium. On the railings, a few rows in front of me, hang about eight shirts, all of the same player. The shirts are from three different teams, but I assume from different seasons. None of the shirts is for Seoul, though. I go over to take a photo and find out which player's shirts they are, and the man sitting behind them tells me they are of number 27, Ee Chae-Yun, a new player at Seoul. She is a defender, 39 years old, and has played for almost every team in the league over the years. Kudos to her for still being good enough to get a contract at her age.

Before the match starts, there is a ceremony for a player named Ee Eun-Mi. It seems she retired and is being honoured for her time with the club.

Off to the side of the main group of spectators is a man behind an umbrella. It's odd because the umbrella is pointing away from the sun. It's almost as if he is trying to hide. He spent most of the match shouting/arguing at the players. Strangest of all, his loudest outbursts came while players were setting up for set pieces, when nothing was happening. I wish I could understand what he is saying, but I suspect no one around me understands either.

The match itself is rather ch
aotic and particularly good. Neither team seems to have a clear plan, and too many players try to be fancy for no reason, at the worst times. For instance, one Suwon player tries a no-look back pass, no teammate within 10 metres of her, and Seoul players in front and behind her. But overall, Suwon is just a bit better. When they have chances, they take them, giving them a 2-0 lead. Seoul has a few moments, and the match could have been very different had the ball just dipped a centimetre lower or to the side, but this is part of the game. Sometimes it goes your way, and sometimes it doesn't. All you can do is "improve your luck" by playing better.


The match ended 2-1, a good result for Suwon, who seems to be in decent form for their upcoming AFC matches. Seoul has nothing to be ashamed of. It is their first match of the season, and I'm sure they will get better as they get match fit and their skill sharpen up again.

In the past, when I went to watch matches involving Seoul, I was always annoyed when they formed a circle after the match and stood there rather than thanking the fans who came out to support them. I would walk away wondering why their fans put up with that nonsense. But today I decided to wait until the players leave the field. I also notice that some of the fans are gathering near the railings as if they expect the players to come over. They don't, and in the meantime, the Suwon players are on the other side singing with their fans. But I stay because this is part of the adventure, and I have to be sure. Then it happens...the players break their circle and walk over to the fans for a bow of appreciation. They are not the barbarians after all. Some players even come up to the railing to talk to family and friends. This is good. This means I'm not following the most ill-mannered team in Korea this season.


After the match, I have to pass the baseball stadium again to get to my preferred bus stop, and I'm amazed by all the people. The Samsung Lions, a team based in Daegu, has hundreds of people already queuing to get in, and more are arriving. Looking at the broadcast when I arrive home, it seems like the stadium is mostly full, meaning there must be at least 15,000 people. It makes me sad that they have thousands watching this silly stickball game, while we had only hundreds for our clearly superior sport. (I'm joking. I may not like baseball, but I like cricket, so I'm in no position to point fingers at stickball spectators.)

All in all, it was an enjoyable and relaxing day, and I hope the rest of my season can go this smoothly.

*****

2026.04.04 - Suwon FC Women 2:1 Seoul City Hall Amazones WFC


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